Comme Il Fautby Tallie Lieberman | 27.10.16
Gender norms and body types, social boundaries, conventions and expectations – such is the stuff of revolution and the fabric of Comme Il Faut’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection, Measure Me Not.
“We drew inspiration from brave women who are today going against the grain,” Comme Il Faut CEO and Founder Sybil Goldfainer told Telavivian at the fashion show launch of the new line. “We looked to female freedom fighters in Syria, to women here in Israel who are fighting against discrimination. This year, more than ever, Comme Il Faut is political.”
Comme Il Faut’s Fall/Winter 2016 line expands upon the brand’s recurrent theme: the revolt against traditional notions of how women should look – and how they should behave.
“We wanted to break the mold with this line – to rebel,” said designer Sharon Daube. “But to break through boundaries, you need to be armed. You need to be protected on the battlefield. This is a running motif of the new line.”
The battlefield refrain is evident in certain cardinal looks – i.e., the boxy cotton dress shirt with face-masking collar and tailored jacket with massive removable hood – and in the general fixation with exponentially layering fabrics to shield the feminine figure from prying eyes (and hands).
Rather than reconcile or mediate between “contradictions”, between the masculine and the feminine, the traditional and the modern, the military and the civilian, the new collection gives expression to the self-assured and self-confident Comme Il Faut Woman – who makes no excuses, sacrifices nothing and looks the better for it.
She may wear a nearly effervescent transparent dress, but only over a high turtleneck and stiff cigarette pants; she may don an oversized men’s coat, but one adorned with exquisite embroidery, and she may slip into a full-length, monochromatic sweater-dress simply because it oozes comfort and does not (repeat, does not) cling to her figure.
Feathers speckle stiff wool; velvet softens the hard masculine lines of a blazer; the “little black dress” sprouts a high collar; a tailored suit explodes in twinkling black-and-white diamonds. It’s a brave new – fabulous – world.
Comme Il Faut, Hanger 26, Tel Aviv Port. For more info about Comme Il Faut visit the Telavivian City Guide.
Photo credit: Asaf Liberfrund